crab, candy, coffee and crows: my wander through bodega bay
As it seems to go with my life these days, what may start as one thing often ends as another. And don’t worry—it’s not just my train of thought that derails this way; I like to keep things equally unpredictable in all areas of my life. Most recent case in point: my Friday business meeting, which quickly morphed into an impromptu “Wander Where You Are” adventure, complete with seafood, a dangerous caffeine-to-sugar ratio, and a newly found fascination with Alfred Hitchcock. Because, as you’ve probably gathered from the title, I found myself in the quirky coastal town of Bodega Bay.
For those who haven’t had the pleasure, Bodega Bay is a charming little gem in Sonoma County (CA), famous for its ridiculously fresh seafood, gorgeous coastal views (fog permitting), and as the setting for Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds. Now, here is where I have to come clean - I have never watched the movie in its entirety. In fact, I’m fairly certain my knowledge is pieced together from previews, pop culture, and an overactive imagination.
But, being a Northern California native, I knew I couldn’t visit Bodega Bay without at least paying some kind of homage to its famous feathered residents. So, before my meeting, I kicked off my “wander” with a stop in the nearby town of Bodega to check out The Potter Schoolhouse and St. Teresa of Avila Church. While I have been to this location before, I had never actually been inside the church. I was fortunate enough to be invited in by a parishioner who shared that it is a registered historical landmark and the oldest church in continuous use in Sonoma County (opened in 1862). Not only is it featured in The Birds, but it is also the subject of a famous Ansel Adams photograph from 1953. And wouldn’t you know it, just as I was leaving the church, some creepy crows showed up to keep things on “brand”. I don’t want to say they were watching me, but I also don’t want to say they weren’t.
As if by some divine coastal miracle, I rolled into Bodega Bay on one of those unicorn February days - no fog, no drizzle, all blue skies. Clearly, the Weather Gods were in a generous mood, and so who was I to piss off the Gods? I decided to embrace the gift and go full coastal. Go big or go home, right Zeus?
And with that, welcome to my latest installment of Wander Where You Are - my suggestions on how to have a proper “wander” through Bodega Bay… or at the very least, a guide on how to consume an impressive amount of seafood and saltwater taffy in a single afternoon!
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Yes, I even got my business lunch date in on the fun at the Fishetarian!
Where to begin
Is this even a question? Because if you ask me, the answer is always with food. And when you’re by the coast, the answer is specifically with seafood. The real challenge in Bodega Bay isn’t what to eat—it’s how to choose where to eat it. So my advice? Don’t. Just take the highly strategic approach of eating your way through town. But how does one decide where to find the best crustaceans before busting at the seams? I can’t claim to be an expert, but I can share my picks for getting your seafood fix in Bodega Bay.
fishetarian fish market
Located at the Lucas Warf (and right next to another great, albeit more formal restaurant, Rocker Oysterfeller’s), Fishetarian is open 7 days a week and is one of the best places to grab local seafood that is always sustainably sourced. It has a fun, funky, casual vibe with quick service and an awesome menu. Because we are smack in the middle of Dungeness Crab season, the crab sandwich was a no brainer for me. And wow, it did not disappoint! Our neighbors at the table over from us said that Shane’s Fish Taco were to “die for”. They also offer gluten-free and vegetarian options for the non-fish crowd!
The stunning view from the adirondack chairs at The Lodge at Bodega Bay
The Boat House in Bodega Bay, CA
The cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean at Bodega Head
other MUST-EAT options
Spud Point Crab Company: A Small Shack with a Big Reputation
If you come to Bodega Bay and don’t stop at Spud Point Crab Company, did you even go? This family-run crab shack is famous for its award-winning clam chowder (thank you Carol) and of course, all things crab. And their story is just too cool - read about them here. Just know that there’s usually a line, but also know, it’s totally worth the wait!
The Boat House: Because sometimes you want to eat fried fish without pretending to be fancy
Another authentic, family-owned establishment (and popular with the locals so you know it’s legit) is The Boat House. It’s an unassuming little spot that serves up killer fish and chips, fried calamari and BBQ oysters. They also offer private boat charters and fishing excursions on the bay.
caffeine and sugar : A love story
If you know, you know. Because what’s a good wander without consuming your weekly recommended intake of candy and caffeine all in one sitting?
Patrick’s Salt Water Taffy
You know when you walk into a candy store with good intentions - just picking up a little something for “the kids” - and five minutes later, you are arms deep in enough sugar to fuel an all-nighter? Just me? I highly doubt it. Welcome to Patrick’s of Bodega Bay.
This place is a straight-up Bodega Bay institution, and their taffy is so fresh and soft that you’ll be able to justify the purchase of multiple pound-sized bags of salt water taffy without guilt (well maybe only a little guilt). I grabbed a mix of flavors - because balance is important - and then promptly tested the limits of how much taffy one person can consume in a single sitting. (in case you are curious, it’s a lot).
The Birds Cafe: Because you are going to need a caffeine chaser to head off the sugar crash
And I must note, this is not just a coffee shop. The Birds Cafe offers a full menu (boasting great reviews). Next time I come, I am trying the artichoke fritters. In addition to all things seafood, they have a cool Alfred Hitchcock themed coffee shop offering espresso, baked goods and even a gift shop. It’s a fun “one-stop” destination located in a single, picturesque setting.
where to walk off all that seafood and salt water taffy
Bodega Head
One of the best ways to take in the beauty of Bodega Bay is to take a walk at Bodega Head. This stunning overlook (and the point where the Pacific Ocean meets Bodega Bay - I’m not quite sure that I am saying that quite right but you can read all about it HERE) offers panoramic views of the ocean, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot some whales, especially this time of year (January - May). If you’re unlucky, you might get dive-bombed by a seagull trying to get the remainder of your Almond Cake from The Birds Cafe - I may or may not be talking about me.
Since I was not in the appropriate footwear for the occasion, remember the part about the business meeting, I did not walk the full 4 mile stretch but next time for sure!
Doran Regional Park: For When You do have the appropriate footwear
This two-mile stretch of beach is perfect for a leisurely stroll, a picnic, or even kayaking (my wandering does not typically come kayak ready, but good for you if yours does!). It’s also an excellent place to reflect on making better life choices, such as cutting back on sugar and caffeine. Again, I may or may not be talking about me.
where to stay if you want to make it a weekend wander
Obviously this post is more of a day trippin’ vibe vrs. a staycation guide, however I feel like I would be remiss if I didn’t share some thoughts (and resources) around staying in Bodega Bay. I am hoping to return soon and put together more comprehensive recommendations on accommodations for all budgets, but I do want to share two that I can speak to directly.
Please tell them that Donna from Laugh Lines & Life Goals sent you!
The lodge at bodega bay
If you want to treat yourself, The Lodge at Bodega Bay is the way to go. I have only stayed once in Bodega Bay (again, being fairly local, it is more of a day trip for me) and that one time, I stayed at The Lodge at Bodega Bay. Since my stay (we will omit how long ago that was because it reminds me how truly old I am!), the majority of the rooms and suites have been completely renovated. Even though the property boasts arguably one of the most stunning views on the coast (overlooking Doran Beach), the lodge itself still has a comfortable and unpretentious feel.
I stopped in on my way out of town and was greeted by an exceptionally helpful and welcoming concierge. He invited me to feel free to explore the property and even to partake in the afternoon wine and cheese reception in the lobby - offered Thursday - Saturday from 3-5 p.m. (which I gratefully took him up on).
When I say the views are stunning, I mean the views are STUNNING! The Lodge at Bodega Bay knows exactly what it’s working with, which is why they’ve thoughtfully scattered Adirondack chairs in all the right spots - perfectly positioned for soaking in the bay views below. And those sunset views? Let’s just say I need to plan a return trip for verification purposes.
But the scenery isn’t the only thing worth raving about. The Lodge also offers spa treatments, beach bikes for a quick ride down to Doran Beach below, and a lineup of complimentary guest activities, including fitness and wellness classes. And let’s not forget the truly important stuff—like evening s’mores in the lobby (Sunday through Wednesday) and, of course, the wine reception I’ve already had the pleasure of enjoying. They also have two amazing on-site restaurants, Drakes Sonoma Coast and Fireside Lounge.
Vacation Home Rentals: Bodega Bay and Beyond
And so here we come full circle. Remember the business meeting that I mentioned earlier? Well, I had the pleasure to meet with Derek Stefan and Kris Lepore from Sonoma Coast Living and tour their beautiful properties at Harbor View at Bodega Bay (if you find yourself contemplating the idea of purchasing a coastal property - these are your guys!). That said, I also found out that they offer vacation rentals as well! Ideal for those who want a little more space (or just like the idea of having an entire kitchen to store their salt water taffy haul) - Check out Bodega Bay and Beyond as a great option. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway, a girl’s weekend or to host a family retreat, there’s something for everyone.
Final Thoughts: why wander bodega bay
Bodega Bay is the kind of place that forces you to slow down. Whether you’re strolling along the cliffs of Bodega Head, sipping wine in your fluffy robe at the lobby reception after your spa treatment (don’t knock it until you’ve tried it), or inhaling crab like you are training for some kind of crustacean-eating championship, there’s something undeniably magical about this little coastal town.
So the next time you need a mini-getaway, head to Bodega Bay. Just bring a big appetite and keep one eye on the sky - I swear those birds are always watching.
Look familiar? Even I remember the scene in The Birds of the children running from Porter School in Bodega, CA
The statue dedicated to commercial fishermen at the Bodega Bay Harbor
